In this episode, we’re thrilled to welcome Xian, an accomplished climber, climbing coach, and writer.
With over 20 years of experience in the climbing world, Xian's journey has transformed from an enthusiastic gym rat to an international competitor, and now she focuses on outdoor performance, coaching, and writing.
Climbing has been a powerful force in Xian's life, helping her uncover her true self and shape her aspirations. Her passion for the sport culminated in her recently published book, Smooth: Movement Principles and Techniques for Climbing, where she shares valuable insights on the art of climbing.
Join us as Xian discusses her evolution in the climbing community, the principles behind effective movement, and how climbing continues to influence her life.
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Show notes
- Who is Xian
- Xian’s climbing journey spanning nearly 20 years
- Transitioning from competition climbing to outdoor climbing and coaching
- Insights into Xian’s new book, Smooth, focused on climbing techniques and principles
- Xian’s upbringing in Singapore, a highly urbanized city-state
- Joining a climbing club at 15 and discovering a passion for climbing
- Her first outdoor climbing experience in Thailand
- The impact of limestone cliffs in Thailand on Xian’s climbing perspective
- Adjusting to outdoor climbing challenges, including basic accommodations and new environments
- How climbing introduced Xian to the outdoors and a different lifestyle.
- The lack of outdoor exposure growing up in Singapore.
- Choosing the University of St Andrews in Scotland for a dramatically different experience
- Experiencing four seasons for the first time after moving from Singapore
- Transitioning from the humid climate of Singapore to Scotland’s cooler, rainier weather
- Initial struggles with outdoor culture and gear at St Andrews
- The humourous story of learning the importance of proper hiking boots rather than Converse sneakers
- Joining the mountaineering club and exploring Scotland’s Highlands
- The differences between indoor climbing culture in Singapore and mountaineering culture in Scotland
- Adjusting to student-led mountaineering trips and the challenges they brought
- Xian’s progression from indoor climbing to mastering various climbing disciplines
- Key differences between bouldering, sport climbing, and traditional climbing
- The unique challenges of placing protection in traditional climbing
- Her philosophy on climbing movement and technique
- The significance of movement principles in both climbing and coaching
- How she balances her roles as a coach, climber, and author
- Why she wrote Smooth and her goals for sharing climbing knowledge
- Reflections on the cultural shift from Singapore to the UK
- The value of seasons and outdoor environments in shaping Xian’s climbing journey
- Building resilience through challenging and unpredictable climbing environments
- Xian’s thoughts on connecting with nature through climbing
- Xian’s current climbing routine and goals
- How she balanced full-time coaching and writing a book
- The origins of her book idea
- What readers can expect from her book
- An overview of common climbing mistakes
- Why good footwork is crucial in climbing
- Her experiences with recurring climbing injuries
- How injuries became opportunities for self-improvement
- Lessons learned from shoulder injuries and improper technique
- The importance of addressing the root causes of injuries
- How a severe back injury changed Xian’s approach to training
- The importance of recovery and balancing training load
- Why injuries are common but manageable in climbing and athletics
- Her thoughts on injury prevention and care
- One of Xian’s most magical climbing experiences in France
- How climbing unique locations enhances the experience
- The mental challenge of committing to difficult climbs
- Insights into Xian’s coaching philosophy.
- The rewards of overcoming challenges in climbing
- How she balances professional and personal climbing goals
- The role of perseverance in achieving long-term climbing success
- Finding joy in sharing her knowledge through writing and coaching
- Final words of advice
Social Media
Website www.xiangoh.com
Instagram @xiangoh_
Facebook @xiangohcoach
Book: ‘Smooth: Movement Principles and Techniques for Climbing’